As for the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, this wine seems more subdued than it did last year and might be going through a relatively closed stage. As it sat in the glass, it took on an almost Ducru-Beaucaillou or Leoville-Las Cases St.-Julien-like character, with notes of minerals, cedar wood, black currants, tobacco, and spice. This is a rich, dark ruby/purple-colored wine with very complex aromatics, medium to full body, tight structure and plenty of tannin in the finish. There are 20,000 cases. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025. Tel. (707) 226-1395 and (800) MONDAVI; fax (707) 251-4386.