Powell & Son Steinert Shiraz, Eden Valley Barossa Australia 2016

Priced in the same ballpark as another Eden Valley Shiraz icon, the Powells' 2016 Steinert Shiraz deserves to be mentioned in that same class. Sourced from the cooler Flaxman Valley portion of the region from vines more than 120 years old, it boasts complex aromas of garrigue, baking spices, black cherries and raspberries. It's full-bodied, creamy-textured and rich, with echoes of red fruit and wet stone on the nearly endless finish.

Dave Powell was the founding winemaker at Torbreck (1994), where he single-handedly built the brand into a major player before being ousted in a business dispute. The 2016s are the third vintage for him and his son Callum under the Powell & Son label. Many of the vineyard sources are similar to those he worked with previously, but there's no doubt Callum has had an impact on the style of the wines, as they're definitively not Torbreck. The changes are subtle, but there's a finer eye on the oak and gentle extraction, all in pursuit of intricacy and detail in the finished wines. "It's been crucial for me to have Callum come in and give another perspective," said Powell. The stars of the lineup are the Steinert and Kraehe Shirazes, very different expressions from very different sites, but it is impossible to go wrong with any of the latest releases.