Even with an appreciable volume (11,300 cases), all of the 2021 Chardonnay Mannequin was barrel fermented and matured, spending eight months in 23% new French oak. Blended primarily from Santa Barbara and Sonoma sources (there is some Napa fruit, as well as 2.6% Viognier), it's toasty on the nose, boasting notes of roasted cashew, grilled peaches and vanilla. It's full-bodied, lush and easy to drink, with tropical fruit and pineapple on the finish. Enjoy it on the young side.

Despite having sold the Orin Swift brand to Gallo in 2016, founder and winemaker Dave Phinney remains deeply involved, pointing out that Gallo's distribution clout has let him focus more on the vineyards and winemaking. "The easiest way to build complexity is through geographic diversity," Phinney said as we dug into the wines in February. "It's Important that all the wines have their own personality," he added.

That said, Phinney's stylistic imprint is on all these wines, which exude big, ripe fruit. If it is tart, lean wines you favor, you have been warned.