Perhaps it is inevitable in a blended red that includes Petite Sirah, Grenache and Syrah, but the nose of the 2021 Proprietary Red Abstract is a bit generic, with decent fruit represented by a mix of berries and cherries. Sourced from areas as diverse as Sonoma, Napa and Lodi, it's full-bodied and softly tannic, with an herbal nuance and a hint of dark chocolate on the gently dusty finish.

Despite having sold the Orin Swift brand to Gallo in 2016, founder and winemaker Dave Phinney remains deeply involved, pointing out that Gallo's distribution clout has let him focus more on the vineyards and winemaking. "The easiest way to build complexity is through geographic diversity," Phinney said as we dug into the wines in February. "It's Important that all the wines have their own personality," he added.

That said, Phinney's stylistic imprint is on all these wines, which exude big, ripe fruit. If it is tart, lean wines you favor, you have been warned.