Domaine Michael Magnien Morey St. Denis  'Climats d'Or' Burgundy Cote de Nuits 2022

Domaine Michael Magnien Morey St. Denis 'Climats d'Or' Burgundy Cote de Nuits 2022

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Wine Review

Domaine Michel Magnien 2022 Morey St. Denis - Climats d'Or  

Villages Red barrel
Score: 90-93 Burghound
Tasted: Jan 10, 2024
Drink: 2032+
Issue: 93
Outstanding
Note: from a blend of the 1es Monts Luisants, Millandes, Charrières, Chézeaux, Clos Baulet, Blanchards, Les Chaffots and Aux Charmes
Producer note: Frédéric Magnien enthusiastically described 2022 a "great vintage that reminds me quite a bit of 2019. The notably hot and dry growing season was largely easy to manage though we did have storms in Gevrey and the south side of Nuits that caused us some grief though nothing catastrophic. We picked from the 6th to the 22nd of September and the fruit was pretty much spotless. Quantities were good as well though not really high at between 35 to 40 hl/ha with very reasonable potential alcohols of 12.8 to 13.2%. I used between 25 and 50% whole clusters but with the central stalk cut out. The extractions were relatively easy thanks to the ripeness of the fruit that had average skin thicknesses. Even so, there was a very high proportion of shot berries so the wines certainly don't lack for concentration. As to the wines, there is so much to like as they're fresh, vibrant and have excellent terroir transparency. If you didn't know what the growing season was like and only tasted the wines, you basically wouldn't have any reason to suspect how hot and dry it was." I've mentioned this before, but it bears repeating that Magnien has become arguably the leading specialist in Burgundy in the use of amphorae and jarres (the difference is essentially one of size) during the élevage. Others, such as Dujac, Pousse d'Or and Jean-Marie Fourrier, are experimenting with them as well though Magnien has made them an essential part of his approach. For example, many of these offerings were raised with significant proportions of amphorae that averaged around 50% with the rest in traditional wooden casks. Magnien believes the amphorae better preserve the freshness and they obviously do not mark the wines with toast or vanilla characteristics. Note: there is often confusion relating to the difference between the wines of Domaine Michel Magnien and those of Frédéric Magnien. All the wines are made by Frédéric and thus the difference between the two names is only one of grape sources. The Domaine Michel Magnien wines are from vines owned directly by Michel (Frédéric's father). All of the wines labeled as Frédéric Magnien (see directly above) are from purchased grapes (not from purchased must or wine, an important distinction). (Winebow, Inc., www.winebow.com, NJ, USA; Charles Taylor Wines, www.charlestaylorwines.com, UK; Altaya Wines, www.altayawines.com, Hong Kong).
Tasting note: There is a herbal tea top note to the brooding aromas of black raspberry, newly turned earth, violet and ripe plum. The super-sleek, even chiseled, medium-bodied flavors also possess a really lovely texture that carries over to the persistent and well-balanced finale that could again use better depth.