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The 2012 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Chenes Carteaux comes courtesy of the domaine’s 50-year-old vines. It has a strict, linear bouquet that is cut from the same cloth as Robert Chevillon’s, with an emphasis of mineralite rather than fruite. Nothing wrong with that and with time it offers delicate forest floor and beguiling autumnal aromas. The palate is more feminine, with pointed acidity and a citrus core of fruit. This is one of Guillaume Gouge’s more sophisticated, refined offerings with wonderful precision towards the finish. (NM) (12/2013)