Domaine Etienne Sauzet Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune 'Jardin du Calvair' Chardonnay Burgundy FR 2021
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Wine Review BURGHOUND
Domaine Etienne Sauzet
Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Beaune "Jardin du Calvaire" ♥
Regional White 750 ml
Tasted: Jun 10, 2023
Producer note: Gérard Boudot's son-in-law Benoît Riffault described the 2021 vintage as "one where volumes got completely crushed. We produced less in 2021 than we did in 2003, and that's saying something! We tried to protect a few vineyards but when the snow fell and then melted, it was all over. We were off 55% on average but volumes were wildly varied, which is to say down between 20 and 80%. But it was the 1ers that were the worst affected as they came in between 8 and 15 hl/ha and several of them will not be declared in 2021. Even with the tiny yields, maturities came slowly so we didn't begin picking until the 22nd of September, which is exactly one month later than the 22nd of August date we started in 2020. Waiting a few extra days was helpful as potential alcohols were very good as they ranged from 12.5 to 13.5%. The fermentations finished without incident and I was actually surprised at how fast the malos finished because I have never seen such low pHs. As to the wines, I adore this vintage despite all its problems. The wines are highly concentrated yet electric and I think that many of them will make for superb old bones." I couldn't agree more with Riffault as there are several stunningly good wines in his portfolio. Riffault noted that for those wines in bottle, they were put there in January 2023 and that the upper-level wines would likely be bottled in March and April 2023. Lastly, Riffault indicated that in 2021 there will be no Chevalier-Montrachet, La Truffière, Hameau de Blagny, Champ Gain or Chassagne "Les Encégnières". (Vineyard Brands, www.vineyardbrands.com, AL, USA; O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Davy & Co., www.davywine.co.uk, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Harrods Limited, www.harrods.com/food-and-wine, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, Clarion Wines, www.clarionwines.co.uk, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com, House of Townend, www.houseoftownend.com, Claret-E Ltd, www.claret-e.com, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com UK; Sequin & Robillard/Vinifera, www.seguinrobillard.ca, Canada).
Tasting note: This is also reduced though there is no lactic note. There is terrific punch to the slightly less concentrated but more mineral-inflected flavors that also conclude in a youthfully austere and lemony finish that is linear and long. Lovely and worth a look.