Domaine de la Pousse d'Or Volnay Clos d'Audignac Monopole, Burgundy France 2022
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Burghound Wine Review
Domaine de la Pousse d'Or
2022
Volnay "Clos l'Audignac" ♥
1er Cru Red barrel
Score: 91-93. Burghound
Tasted: Apr 10, 2024
Drink: 2034+
Issue: 94
Outstanding
Note: a northeast facing vineyard that rarely gets the same degree of sunlight as the other Volnay 1ers in the portfolio and thus it can often be more Pommard-like than Volnay in character
Producer note: Benoît Landanger, who has assumed the direction of this domaine and has converted it to biodynamic farming principles, was away at the time of my visit though he did leave a brief 'welcome video' with a few details about the 2022 vintage, which I confess in the almost 25 years as a professional critic, was a first! However, I was very capably received and as noted last year, there have been significant changes in the domaine's holdings. The total vineyard area under management is now an impressive 17.4 ha though the details are still being working out as it's possible that Benoît may found a new domaine based in Gevrey to run in conjunction with Pousse d'Or. The additions include a leased parcel of .27 ha in the Gevrey 1er of La Perrière and .26 ha in Mazoyères (which is being declared as Charmes-Chambertin) as well as a .11 ha holding in the Echézeaux climat of Poullailères. For the time being, the additions are noted as "managed by the Landanger Family". On the other side of the ledger, the parcel of Feusselottes was traded away. Effectively this means that the domaine now works with an incredible 7 grand crus (6 reds plus Chevalier-Montrachet) and fully 11 premier crus (10 red and 1 white, the Puligny Caillerets); just as impressive is that 3 of the premier crus are monopoles! Once again, I had a chance to taste three wines that were vinified exactly the same as the regular cuvées but were raised in amphora; this is to say the En Caillerets, Clos de la Bousse d'Or and the Clos des 60 Ouvrées vineyards. I note these using the term amphore in the reviews, but the actual terminology found on the label reads "Vinifié et Élevé en Amphore". As the scores and commentaries confirm, I was very impressed with the wines in 2022 and in particular, those from Volnay really stood out. (Langdon-Shiverick, www.shiverick.com, CA, North Berkeley Imports, www.northberkeleyimports.com, CA, Ideal Wines, www.idealwine.us, MA, Classified Wine & Spirits, LLC, www.classifiedwine.net, TX, Terroir Selections, www.terroir-selections.com, FL, all USA).
Tasting note: This is also agreeably spicy on the slightly earthier red and dark berry fruit aromas. As is always the case, there is more volume and power to the more concentrated and tautly muscular flavors that aren't nearly as refined on the long, complex and built-to-age finale. As is always the case with the Clos l'Audignac, this is a wine that demands aging and a minimum of 5 to 7 years will be necessary.