Here's a treat from Casanova di Neri. Aged in tonneaux for 30 months, the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova is fleshed out and rich with pretty layers of dark fruit, dried blackberry, spice and cured tobacco. There is a point of sour cherry in this vintage that folds into crushed flower, balsam herb, licorice and crushed stone. The bouquet is classic, but the Casanova di Neri magic touch comes through thanks to the wine's balance and pretty intensity. I can't, however, overlook a powerful 15% alcohol content that leaves its mark. This is a production of 67,740 bottles.

The Neri family has two new wines to present. The biggest news is the introduction of the top-shelf Brunello di Montalcino Giovanni Neri. The wine—and the vineyard site—is named after Giacomo Neri's dad (and his son), and fruit comes from a seven-hectare vineyard that was planted in 1973 by a farmer named Tocci. After many, many failed attempts, the Neri family was finally able to buy this gem in 2017, despite claims by the old farmer that "he would never sell." Thankfully, he changed his mind. The second wine is the Rosso di Montalcino Giovanni Neri, in production now for four years. In fact, I did a little vertical of all vintages produced so far: 2021, 2020, 2019 and 2018.