From the winery's lower vineyard, planted in 2002 and 2014, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon No. 95 includes just a splash of Cabernet Franc. It offers up classic scents of crushed stone, pencil shavings, black cherries and cassis, while the full-bodied palate is ripe and velvety, with a long, licorice-tinged and slightly warm finish framed by soft, dusty tannins. It's a fine introduction to the property.

On this visit to Brand, located on Pritchard Hill, I was joined by proprietors Jim Bean and Christine O'Sullivan, winemaker Matt Johnson and consultant Philippe Melka. There are currently just under 15 acres of vines planted, but approval for another 15 acres of vineyards seems near—although these things can never be taken for granted in Napa's current love-hate relationship with the wine industry.

Johnson referred to 2021 as "a breath of fresh air after the heartbreak of 2020," saying he felt the vines "found a sense of balance despite the dry conditions." The vineyards are certified organic, planted in 17 blocks to 16 different combinations of clone and rootstock. The rockiest parcels typically go into the Cabernet Sauvignon, while the Proprietary Red is a majority of Cabernet Franc.