Domaine Etienne Sauzet Les Combettes Puligny-Montrachet Cotes de Beaune FR 2020
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Wine Review BURGHOUND
Domaine Etienne Sauzet
2020
Puligny-Montrachet "Les Combettes" ♥
1er Cru White barrel
Score: 92-95 Burghound
Tasted: Jun 10, 2022
Drink: 2030+
Issue: 87
Sweet spot Outstanding
Note: from a 1 ha parcel of 50+ year old vines that see 40% new wood
Producer note: Gérard Boudot's son-in-law Benoît Riffault described the 2020 vintage as "one that was very surprising, not only because there were no climatic incidences of note but also because such a hot and dry growing season produced such fresh and vibrant wines. I was honestly worried that we would have heavy and over ripe wines but that's not at all what happened. We began picking on the 22nd of August and brought in super-clean fruit that required almost no sorting. Yields were good but not high as they came in around 45 hl/ha for the regional and villages wines and between 35 and 45 hl/ha for the 1ers and grand crus. Potential alcohols were pretty much ideal, ranging as they did from 13 to 13.5%, which is noticeably lower than what we obtained in 2019. The wines are dense but highly energetic and should have no trouble aging for as long as anyone would reasonably want to. I am a fan of the style because it's so refreshing." As he did last year, Riffault repeated that all the wines made with 100% domaine fruit will now be certified as organic on the back labels. This means that all of the wines will be so designated except for the Bourgogne, Garenne, Chevalier and Montrachet. I repeat for the benefit of readers that the domaine is now sealing the bottle necks with wax for the 1ers and grand crus. I would also point out that as of 2013 the domaine is using corks with a diameter of 25 mm (24 is normal) from cork bark that is a minimum of 12 years old. Lastly, Riffault noted that for those wines in bottle, they were put there in December 2021 and January 2022 and that the upper-level wines would likely be bottled in March and April 2022. I would observe that the domaine fashioned some incredibly fine 2020s and in particular the Combettes and Bâtard are very much worth your interest.
Tasting note: Here the restrained nose grudgingly offer up a more floral-suffused nose that combines notes of petrol and citrus with those of apple and pear compote. There is excellent volume to the caressing yet markedly punchy medium-bodied flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the balanced, focused and impressively persistent finale. This is a wine of contrasts as the almost delicate mid-palate is quite different from the powerful and notably firm finale. This too could use better depth but like the Folatières, the Sauzet Combettes is justly known for its aging prowess.