Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet Les Champ Gains France Cote de Beaune 2022

Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet Les Champ Gains France Cote de Beaune 2022

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Burghound Wine Review

Domaine Michel Niellon
2022
Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Champs Gain"  
1er Cru White 750 ml
Score: 91
Tasted: Jun 10, 2024
Drink: 2028+
Issue: 95
Outstanding
Note: from a .44 ha parcel situated in shallow soil that is a mixture of clay and fragmented rock
Producer note: Michel Niellon's son-in-law, Michel Coutoux, who has been at the domaine since 1990, is easing out of the day-to-day operations. He is doing so in favor of his children, one of whom, Lucie, has assumed responsibility for the vinification of the reds. She also presented the whites and frankly noted that 2022 "started with yet another April frost scare, which after what we went through in 2016 and again in 2021, isn't a trivial concern. Thereafter though conditions were largely clement and while there was a bit of mildew pressure, it didn't last due to the very dry weather. We picked from the 24th to the 30th of August and bought in super-clean fruit with yields of between 45 to 50 hl/ha, which is more than satisfactory. Potential alcohols were also quite good, but importantly not high, at between 13 to 13.5% with reasonable acidities. The fermentations presented no particular worries and as usual, we did no lees stirring. As to the style, my father calls it classic and while I don't begin to have his experience, I like the quality a great deal." Fans of the domaine will be thrilled to hear that, after several years of no production due to replanting the vineyard, that the famous Bâtard will finally reappear as of the 2023 vintage. The Bâtard coming back online will allow for the vines in Chevalier to be progressively replaced as well over the next few years. In another development, the domaine is now employing the Diam brand composite cork for all of the whites except for the Chevalier and, presumably, the Bâtard though that was not specified. I would add that the Chaumées - Clos de la Truffière is especially good and worth your interest. Lastly, Coutoux noted that the 2022s were bottled in August 2023. (Treasury Château & Estates Wines, www.tweglobal.com, CA and Terlato Wines International, www.terlatowines.com, IL, both USA; O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com and Robert Rolls & Co., www.robertrolls.com, all UK; Altaya Wines, www.altayawines.com, Hong Kong).
Tasting note: This is aromatically similar to the Maltroie though with evident floral elements. There is slightly better volume and mid-palate density to the delicious and caressing but punchy medium weight flavors that possess a healthy amount of sappy dry extract while exhibiting better overall depth and persistence. This too should be approachable young but easily repay mid-term keeping.