Patrick Puize Chablis Terrior de Decouverte Burgundy France 2023
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Wine Review Burghound
Maison Patrick Piuze
2023
Chablis - Terroir de Découverte
Villages White 750 ml
Score: 88
Tasted: Oct 10, 2024
Drink: 2027+
Issue: 96
Producer note: The irrepressible Patrick Piuze, who has worked with Jean-Marie Guffens at Verget and Jean-Marc Brocard (see both herein), struck out on his own in 2008 to found his eponymous négociant. Piuze forcefully forswears corrections of any kind, which includes chaptalization (unless absolutely necessary), enzymes, acidification as well as new wood (he uses 6- to 8-year-old wood at present with some stainless, depending on the wine in question). With respect to the 2023 vintage, Piuze commented that "while it had its difficult moments, overall it wasn't too stressful. We picked from the 11th of September and I'm not going to hide the truth, the crop was abundant; indeed volumes were higher than in 2018 yet happily enough, with better skin maturities. Potential alcohols were lower than in 2018 and though acidities were also on the low side they weren't so low that the wines lack vibrancy. Another surprising aspect is that usually ripe vintages require a lot of sulfur to properly stabilize them due to the higher pHs. Such is not the case for us, in fact so little of the SO2 combined that many wines went into bottle at around 60ppm total! I confess to never having seen that before! Overall, I'm happy with the quality as the wines are fresh, vibrant and delicious and while they are certainly not the best I have made, they're perfectly good and should provide much pleasure young." The upper-level wines were not presented as many had just been racked and Piuze decided to present only his bottled wines. I would note that many of them had just been bottled and did show some reductive notes. Piuze uses only natural cork so I would not expect the reduction to last very long. Lastly, a number of Piuze's 2023s are worthy of your interest, particularly among his range of Bourgogne. (DNS Wines, www.dnswines.com, CA, Aliane Wines, www.AlianeWines.com, CA and Bowler, www.bowlerwine.com, NY, all USA; Latimer Vintners, www.latimervintners.com, Wine Source, www.wine-source.com, both UK; SAQ, www.saq.com, Montreal, and Altus Wines, https://altuswines.ca/, both Canada; L'Imperatrice Fine Wines, https://imperatricewine.com.hk, Hong Kong/Macau; Domaine Wine Shippers, www.domainewineshippers.com.au, VIC, Australia).
Tasting note: Here too the fruit is dominated by post-bottling reduction at present. By contrast, there is good freshness and verve to the finer but still reasonably dense middle weight flavors that possess an appealing texture before concluding in a balanced, long and nicely dry finale. Once again, this could use better depth but that should just be a matter of exercise a few years of patience.