Producer note: The big news here of course is that Artémis Domaines, the acquisitive French wine company owned by the Pinault family that includes the Burgundian Domaines Eugénie and Clos de Tart, as well as Château Latour among others, has chosen to divest Domaine William Fèvre to the owners of Château Lafite-Rothschild for an undisclosed sum. When I first heard the news, I confess to wondering what a Bordeaux-centric conglomerate was doing buying a large Chablis-based operation that controls about 78 ha of prime vineyards. However, after some reflection, I now believe that it was a stroke of genius, at least from the standpoint of having acquired the uncontested best holdings in all of Chablis. No other domaine comes even remotely close to matching what Fèvre owns and all of it in the original heart of the appellation - it's literally the best of the best, or perhaps the phrase crème de la crème is more appropriate! Admittedly, I don't know what price was paid, and I'm sure it was considerable, but whatever it was, the Rothschild conglomerate potentially bought the brightest jewel of Chablis. Now whether they can appropriately monetize it is a separate question but if they don't, it will be due to mismanagement, not the lack of the best terroirs that Chablis has to offer. Speaking of separate questions, the divestiture also again raises the question as what Artémis is going to do with Bouchard Père & Fils. For a few thoughts regarding those possibilities, please see the section on Bouchard in Issue 91.
Tasting note: Here too there is a vague suggestion of the exotic on the slightly riper aromas of pear compote, white pepper, ocean spray, iodine and wet stone. The rich, vibrant and palate coating flavors are also supported by bright acidity that carries over to the wonderfully long, youthfully austere and firm finale. This beauty should age effortlessly.