Domaine Joseph Drouhin 'Clos des Mouches' Pinot Noir Burgundy Cote de Beaune 2022
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Wine Review Burghound
Maison Joseph Drouhin
2022
Beaune "Clos des Mouches" ♥
1er Cru Red barrel
Score: 91-94 Burghound
Tasted: Apr 10, 2024
Drink: 2034+
Issue: 94
Sweet spot Outstanding
Producer note: As is usually the case, I met with Véronique Drouhin who described 2022 as "a vintage that we hope will become the new norm, stylistically speaking. Yes, the growing season was extremely hot, indeed the hottest since 2003, and very dry yet the wines are fresh, balanced and reflect clearly their respective terroirs. We will of course see going forward whether 2022 is a sort of one off where a confluence of favorable circumstances allowed the vines to flourish rather than suffer the way they have in several recent extreme vintages. To be sure, some terroirs did suffer from hydric stress but overall, we were pleased the way that the vines resisted the hot and dry conditions. As to the growing season, there wasn't much disease pressure save for an attack of oidium that was controllable. We did have vines in a few places where there was hail, such as Chablis, Gevrey, Nuits and Chorey. There was also an April frost scare but happily we suffered almost no damage. We chose to begin picking on the 24th of August and continued through to September 15th. Despite the heat, which sometimes has a tendency to ripen everything at once, that definitely wasn't the case in 2022. For example, we picked the Beaune "Les Cras" on the 25th of August but didn't pick the Savigny "Clos des Godeaux" until the 8th of September yet the two communes touch one another! We brought in good but not really high yields that were irregular depending on a variety of factors. Similarly, potential alcohols were good but not really high at around 13.5% for the pinot and 13 to 13.5% for the chardonnay. The vinifications for the reds were relatively straightforward and we used varying amounts of whole clusters during a roughly 20-day cuvaison. In the same fashion, the whites gave us no difficulties either and we did no lees stirring. As to the wines, I hesitate to call 2022 a genuinely great vintage but there were definitely some great wines made and speaking for us, we're exceptionally please with the results and that is true for both reds and whites." Based on what I tasted, I would wholeheartedly agree with Mme. Drouhin's sentiments as there are some excellent wines in the portfolio in 2022. Note that the 2022 whites will be reviewed in Issue 95. (Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, NY, USA; Pol Roger Ltd., www.polroger.co.uk, UK).
Tasting note: Here the expressive nose is more floral in character with its elegant aromas of black raspberry, rose petal, violet, lilac and anise. The medium-bodied flavors possess a gorgeous texture thanks to the abundant dry extract that also buffers the very firm tannic spine shaping the longer if less mineral-driven finish. This is also quite lovely and in particular for the sense of harmony that is Zen-like. Absolutely worth considering.