Domaine Etienne Sauzet Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay Burgundy FR 2023

Domaine Etienne Sauzet Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay Burgundy FR 2023

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Wine Review BURGHOUND

Domaine Etienne Sauzet
2023
Bourgogne Chardonnay
Regional White 750 ml
Score: 86 Burghound
Tasted: Jun 10, 2025
Drink: 2026+
Issue: 99
Note: aged half in wood, half in steel with only <10% of the portion in wood being new - from Puligny vines
Producer note: Gérard Boudot's son-in-law Benoît Riffault described the 2023 vintage as "one that basically resembled that of 2022 as it was again mostly hot and dry but perhaps less extreme. I say this because even though the total rainfall was below average, it fell at the right times for the vines to mostly avoid hydric stress. The heat was also more uneven than was the case in 2022. For example, the relatively cool first half of August had us wondering if the relatively large fruit set would adequately ripen yet the second half was so hot we were wondering if we would be faced with fruit that had too much sugar and not enough acidity! In the end the hardest part of the 2023 growing season was deciding when to begin picking because the calculus is always one of trying to ensure that the first vineyards picked aren't too under ripe in the hopes that those picked last won't be too ripe. With this in mind, we picked a few of our most precocious vineyards on the 28th and 29th of August and then began in earnest on the 30th. The fruit was basically spotless thanks to the absence of disease pressure with good but not really high yields of between 40 and 45 hl/ha for the upper-level vineyards, which is the same volume we obtained in 2022. And also like 2022, the potential alcohols averaged 13% plus or minus a few tenths of a degree with good supporting acidities. We had no trouble with either fermentation and I like the way the wines have evolved in barrel. Stylistically, they strike me as a blend of the 2011 and 2017 vintages." When I asked Riffault whether he preferred his 2022s or the 2023s, he hedged somewhat, saying that while 2023 possesses fresher aromatics, the 2022s are denser even though the yields were basically the same. He also noted that he thought that while the upper-level wines were qualitatively similar, he prefers 2022 at the lower levels. Riffault also noted that for those wines already in bottle, they were put there in December 2024 and January 2025 and that the upper-level wines would likely be bottled in March and April 2025. Lastly, there is again a Corton-Charlemagne in the line-up along with the Puligny 1er Sous le Puits. (Vineyard Brands, www.vineyardbrands.com, AL, USA; O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Davy & Co., www.davywine.co.uk, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Harrods Limited, www.harrods.com/food-and-wine, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, Clarion Wines, www.clarionwines.co.uk, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com, House of Townend, www.houseoftownend.com, Claret-E Ltd, www.claret-e.com, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com UK; Sequin & Robillard/Vinifera, www.seguinrobillard.ca, Canada).
Tasting note: A slightly riper mix features notes of pear, apple and lemon zest. The sleek, delicious and nicely textured flavors possess reasonable vibrancy while delivering good length on the equally clean and dry finale. This could use better depth so a year or two of keeping should help.