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(98 - 100) RP
2016 - 2066
Robert M. Parker, Jr.
As for the 2015 Madrona Ranch, there are 20 barrels of it, which is essentially 500 cases of wine. A wine of surreal richness and intensity, with an opaque blue/black/purple color, the wine smells awesome, with notes of charcoal, camphor, incense, graphite, blackberry, cassis and possibly some floral undertones. Unctuously textured, thick and juicy, with an energized mouthfeel despite its massive fruit and extract, this is an incredible effort and one that will age for 35-50 years.
Is anyone anywhere in the world making more consistently profound wines than the famous viticulturalist David Abreu and his long-time sidekick and assistant, former chef Brad Grimes? Working from relatively small sites, two of them adjacent to the back streets of St. Helena (the six-acre Cappella Vineyard alongside a cemetery and the home estate of Madrona Ranch at the base of Spring Mountain) to the co-owned vineyard with Ric Forman, the magnificent Thorevilos Vineyard behind the Meadowood Resort. There is also his own 2,000-foot elevation site on Howell Mountain. These wines are all proprietary reds, probably containing at least 60-65% Cabernet Sauvignon, the rest largely Cabernet Franc with a little Petit Verdot and occasionally tiny amounts of Merlot. They spend a full two years in 100% new French oak and are bottled without any fining or filtration. They are exquisite examples of Bordeaux blends that are true first growths in every sense. So how do I go about describing these wines, which are so exciting and satisfying on both hedonistic and intellectual levels?