Domaine Joseph Voillot Volnay 'Les Fremiets' Pinot Noir Beaune  FR 2023

Domaine Joseph Voillot Volnay 'Les Fremiets' Pinot Noir Beaune FR 2023

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Burghound Wine Review

Domaine Joseph Voillot
2023
Volnay "Les Frémiets"  
1er Cru Red 750 ml
Score: 91 Burghound
Tasted: Apr 10, 2025
Drink: 2031+
Issue: 98
Outstanding
Note: from vines that average 50+ years of age
Producer note: Etienne Chaix, the current director of this fabled domaine, described 2023 as "one, much like 2022, that had a pretty easy growing season though they were certainly not the same. 2022 was very hot and markedly dry and while 2023 was certainly very warm, there were more periodic showers. The season began with a rapid flowering though the summer turned complicated as the big crop wasn't really budging in terms of advancing the maturities. We had a stroke of luck though as the second half of August turned exceptionally hot and with a small storm on the 15th, maturities began climbing quickly. We chose to begin picking on the 5th of September and continued through to the 11th, which was propitious as it rained on the 12th! There was moderate sorting necessary, mostly for underripe berries, but there was a bit of everything, including botrytis, sunburn and in a few cases, hail. All told, we threw out between 15 and 20% of the potential crop. Maturities, while perfectly good, were not as high as the high temperatures made me think that they might be. Volumes were unusually good at between 42 to 48 hl/ha with potential alcohols that were in the upper 12 to 13% range. Stylistically, the 2023s remind me of a denser but less robust version of our 2017s." The reds were bottled between July and December 2024." (A Roy Cloud Selection for Vintage '59 Imports, www.vintage59.com, Washington, D.C., USA; Anthony Sarjeant, UK; Jalux, www.jalux.com, Japan; Dieckmann's Wein, www.dieckmannswein.de, Germany; Okhuysen, www.okhuysen.nl, Netherlands; Divine Wines, www.divine-burgundy-wine.com, Ireland; La Cave de Reverolle, www.cavedereve.ch, Switzerland; Fine Wine Company, www.sdvf.ca, Canada).
Tasting note: A slightly riper, and more deeply pitched, nose combines notes of plum, warm earth and a hint of smoked meat character. Here too the mouthfeel of the medium-bodied flavors is super-sleek with slightly better density, all wrapped in a youthfully austere and slightly firmer finish. Very good quality here though in a package that's going to need at least some bottle aging.