K Vintners Stoneridge Cabernet Sauvignon Washington Columbia Valley 2009

This is pure Cabernet—tight, tannic and terroir-driven. It has a dense mix of fruit, rock, earth and herb flavors that are nicely integrated, with a full palate and fine complexity and density. A little more barrel toast would put the icing on the cake. Editors' Choice.

Like its Merlot counterpart, unblended, and matured in barrel for more than two years, Smith's 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Stoneridge, nonetheless, gives a very different account of itself, featuring juicy, downright tart-edged cassis and elderberry fruit that more than rides out the wine's underlying tannin. Wild plum and fennel as well as pronounced salinity and alkalinity make it impossible for me not to imagine myself near an ocean. The combination of bright, sappy fresh berry intensity and mouthwatering salinity makes for an irresistible urge to take the next sip even before the long finish has faded. Look for at least a decade of delicious fascination.