Hints of toasted almond, lemon curd and pastry crust evoke an almost dessert-like sensation on the nose of the 2019 Chardonnay. The medium-bodied palate is silky and generous but crisp and dry, finishing with mouthwatering savoriness and length.
It might strike some readers as odd that the story of such a Burgundian-inspired producer starts not with grapes but with beer. Founder Phil Sexton started out as a brewer in Western Australia, but he parlayed success at Matilda Bay and Little Creatures into a career in wine, starting and then selling Devil's Lair in Margaret River before settling in Yarra Valley and starting Giant Steps. As the cliché goes, it takes a lot of money to make a small fortune in the wine business. At Giant Steps, the emphasis has evolved toward single-vineyard expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir under the leadership (since 2003) of chief winemaker Steve Flamsteed. That said, don't overlook the Syrah offerings here, particularly the stunning 2018 Tarraford Vineyard bottling.