2020 - 2035
Ramonet's 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Village has opened up a little since I tasted it earlier this year, offering up notes of pastry cream, crisp green orchard fruit, citrus oil, vanilla pod and white flowers. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and nicely concentrated, with sappy acids and a fleshy core. This is a charming but nicely defined Chassagne that will offer a broad drinking window.
The 2017 vintage has turned out very well indeed at Domaine Ramonet, and gets my nod as the finest set of wines produced at this historic Chassagne-Montrachet reference point since 2014. Ramonet's 2017s are a bit more giving than the 2014s, with more exuberant fruit tones, and some cuvées are surprisingly ripe and sun-kissed in personality. Among the premiers crus, this year's Morgeot, Vergers and Ruchottes are all quite rich wines, a reminder that 2017 was ultimately what the French call a "solaire" vintage. By contrast, however, the 2017 Champ Canet and Caillerets are both beautifully tensile. All the domaine's grands crus are brilliant, and the Montrachet itself is without question one of the wines of the vintage. But all the nuances are parsed in the accompanying tasting notes. Readers looking for more information about this important estate are directed to my article on Domaine Ramonet published in the Interim End of January 2018 issue of The Wine Advocate. Tasting notes on some Ramonet wines back to the 1960s will also be published in the next—and imminent—installment of Up From the Cellar.