Domaine de la Pousse d'Or Corton Clos du Roi Burgundy Cote de Beaune 2016

Domaine de la Pousse d'Or Corton Clos du Roi Burgundy Cote de Beaune 2016

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Domaine de la Pousse d'Or
2016
Corton-Clos du Roi
Grand Cru Red 750 ml
Score: 94
Tasted: Apr 15, 2018
Drink: 2028+
Issue: 70

Producer note: There are big changes occurring here as Patrick Landanger's son Benoît has assumed the direction of the domaine effective the first of January, 2018. In addition, the elder Landanger told me that he had acquired .2039 ha of Chevalier-Montrachet from which the first wine produced will be for the 2017 vintage. The father-son duo reported that the frost partially destroyed the potential crop in almost all of their vineyards but that it was particularly severe in Chambolle and Puligny. The younger Landanger noted that the 2016s were made with very limited amounts of sulfur and were bottled in February 2018. As I mentioned last year, I had a chance to taste an experimental version of the 2015 En Caillerets that was vinified and raised in an amphora. The results of that test were sufficiently encouraging that in 2016 approximately 1000 bottles were produced from unchaptalized fruit for the En Caillerets, Clos de la Bousse d'Or and the Clos des 60 Ouvrées vineyards. I note these using the term amphore but the actually terminology found on the label reads "Vinifié et Élevé en Amphore". I found that a number of the Pousse d'Or 2016s displayed subtle but noticeable levels of volatile acidity (VA) and in a few cases, it was quite evident. I stress that this does not make them necessarily flawed in the sense of being unpleasant, indeed some people very much like the high-toned lift that VA brings to a wine. I point this out so that if you're especially sensitive to its effects, or simply don't like it, you will be aware that it is present as I don't want to incessantly repeat that "if you're sensitive to VA". I have given the wines reasonably good scores because, again for the most part, most people will not find the VA to be intrusive. With that said, they may not be for everyone and I cannot confidently opine how they will age in terms of whether the VA will become more pronounced over time. (Langdon-Shiverick, www.shiverick.com, CA, North Berkeley Imports, www.northberkeleyimports.com, CA, Ideal Wines, www.idealwine.us, MA, Vintner Select, www.vintnerselect.com, OH and Dionysus Imports, www.dionysusimports.com, VA, all USA; Majestic Wine Warehouses, www.majestic.co.uk, UK).
Tasting note: The ripe and ultra-fresh aromas are from the darker side of the fruit spectrum while including plenty of spice, warm earth, menthol and plenty of sauvage character. There is both fine detail and a beguiling texture to the equally broad-shouldered and even more mineral-inflected flavors that possess even better complexity on the balanced and hugely long finish. Unusually, this appears to be just a bit less structured than the Bressandes and should also be approachable on the younger side if that's your preference.